Around three decades ago, my Japanese wife brought me to Suzume-no-yu, a traditional hot spring within the boundaries of Kyushu's Aso-Kujo National Park. It was my first time bathing naked or almost naked with men and women that I had never met before. But soaking unclothed in the hot mineral water of this konyoku, which means a mixed-sex bathing area, felt natural and relaxing.
Many bathers didn't cover any skin. Some bathers, like me, had tiny towels that just barely covered our privates. I held my towel before me while walking around the outdoor bath, but not everyone did. I remember elderly ladies nonchalantly soaking with breasts fully visible and younger ladies barely covering theirs. No one stared, made rude comments, seemed embarrassed, or hid their bodies. We were all at peace with our bodies.
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View of a cold water bath in front of the mineral-laden, roof-covered onsen
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So I was shocked when I recently returned and discovered all the bathers wearing swimming suits. Japan has changed considerably in the last thirty years.
Why should humans feel ashamed of our bodies when our bodies are natural? Our genitalia are not shameful appendages. They are necessary for the continuation of our species. You could consider them gifts from evolution, gods, or whatever power you believe in.
I wrote questions to the management to learn why this once-traditional Japanese onsen now requires swimming suits. My questions and his answers are below.
When did management decide to require swimsuits in the mixed baths?
They made this decision after reopening Suzume-no-yu following the devastating Kumamoto earthquake of April 16, 2019.
Why did they decide to require swimsuits in the mixed baths?
In the past, we used to take baths naked. We also had a women-only hour at night. Before the earthquake, buildings, and walls around Suzume-no-Yu shielded the mixed-sex bath from the view of outsiders walking around the bathing area, so there was no problem with communal nudity. However, the earthquake destroyed those fences and surrounding buildings. Without those barriers, the open view from the baths was so wonderful that we decided to reopen the baths. With those conditions, we thought female customers could relax and enjoy their stay in peace by wearing swimsuits. We decided not to conceal ourselves behind a fence but to wear swimsuits.
Did Japanese or foreign customers request mandatory swimsuit-wearing before management made that decision?
Japanese people believed that onsen baths were to be taken in the nude, so there were no such requests. There were no specific requests from foreigners either.
After making swimsuits mandatory, did they receive positive or negative feedback from Japanese or foreigners about wearing swimsuits?
Positive Comments - Female guests welcomed the change. Family guests said it was nice to be able to enter together. Male customers also commented that they could relax and not worry about other people, especially women.
Negative comments - Some male guests commented that it was bothersome to wear clothes and that it was neither tasteful nor comfortable.
How much is day use, and how much does it cost for private rooms with private baths?
Entrance fees for day use of the spa are as follows: Adults 2,000 yen, students 1,800 yen,
elementary school students 800 yen, infants free.
Room accommodations with private open-air (half-open-air) baths in separate buildings are
41,950 yen/person ~ (2 meals included for two).
Curious to know what other Japanese foreign and native residents think about bathing in mixed-sex Japanese hot springs without swimsuits, I asked for comments on a LinkedIn post and discussed this topic with a few friends.
Most of the small number of answers indicate a reluctance to nude bathing. Some men do not want other men to see their naked wives and daughters. One woman expressed her hope that Japan would not lose its tradition of men and women bathing naked together. Another person suggested a compromise in which onsen rules allow bathers the freedom to either bathe in suits or au naturel. An important point was the fear of strangers taking photographs and uploading them to the web. I heard this years ago when I asked people in Gero Onsen why an open-air bath for men and women required bathing suits. One resident said that some people would stand on a bridge with views of the baths and take photographs or videos. Conversely, the rare rude bather would purposely expose his body to families walking on the bridge.
The fear of being photographed while innocently bathing and having one's body exposed on the internet shows the pernicious influence of smartphones and SNS on bathing culture.
I predict the number of public baths where naked men and women can bathe together in a relaxed environment will continue to decrease. A few onsens allowing traditional mixed-sex bathing will survive by fulfilling a need for the niche bather, one who seeks out this bathing style. I mourn the loss of traditional bathing customs but understand the feelings of those who are uncomfortable with naked bathing. Luckily, couples and families wishing to be together in Japanese onsens can rent private baths in some locations. Such private baths are called kashikiriburos. If you stay at a Japanese hotel or ryokan, ask if they have them. Sometimes, they are not well advertised in English. Beppu, Oita, is well known for many facilities offering kashikiriburos.
Although I regret the imposition of bathing suit regulations, I still recommend Suzume-no-yu Onsen for its unique water. The main public bath feels great. Sitting in the water, you can smell sulfur and feel thick mineral sediments. Some people like to soak their hands in the mud at the bottom of the baths and leave handprints on beams supporting the roof. The location is far from towns and noisy roads. The recently renewed lodging accommodations are rustically attractive.
Hikers will enjoy nearby walking routes. One path leads from the onsen up the mountain to locations where hot steam and bubbling, boiling water rise from the earth. If you have never seen this before, it is worth a visit. The hike continues through woods to the edge of a grassy plateau where local cattle and horses graze. This is part of the spectacular Aso-Kuju National Park.
This extensive, volcanic parkland has many Japanese onsens and other natural relaxing activities. Travelers in Japan who appreciate nature will be delighted to travel about the park.
A nearby onsen facility I also recommend is Aso Farm Land.
Suzume-no-Yu is located on the edge of Minamiaso, Kumamoto. Because of its remote location, driving is the best way to get there.
Probably, Japan's largest mix-sex bath is Sukayu Onsen in Aomori.
All photographs except the one at the bottom were provided by Suzume-no-yu Onsen at my request.
Hotspringaddict did not receive any money or services from the managers of this onsen for this positive review.
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