Escape into an Idyllic Onsen Resort in Mid-Tokyo: FUFU Tokyo Ginza

FUFU Tokyo Ginza invited me to enjoy its offerings before the official opening on November 16, 2025. In the space of a few breaths after walking through the doors, ascending the stylish elevator, and entering the front desk area, I discovered a relaxing, rejuvenating accommodation, an immediate escape from bustling Tokyo. The scents of traditional incense and fresh wood, the swish of noren (Japanese door curtains) being swept in front of me by practiced hands, and ikebana illuminated by soft lighting greeted me.

Each room boasts a private onsen bath and a small garden balcony

I anticipated first-class onsen immersion, and that is what I was gifted. Every room comes with an elegantly designed private bath onsen. Into each bathing space pours hot mineral water transported from Atami, a famous onsen town in Shizuoka Prefecture. The water is brought by specially designed trucks over 100 kilometers from its source to FUFU Ginza. Atami Onsen has a reputation as being one of Japan's best onsen towns. The water is said to be so healthful and comforting that Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543-1616) also had the water transported to Tokyo (then known as Edo) for bathing in his castle. The punctilious service, the lavish meals, and the gorgeous baths did make me feel like a high-ranking member of Japan's past nobility. I could get used to that. 

The breezy rooftop lounge

My first soak of this great experience was on the rooftop lounge, a garden space called Yusora. Soft jazz drifted from unseen speakers. I strolled along a gravel path with stone steps, through palm fronds, to private spaces for circular day beds under the open sky. As my feet absorbed the warmth of the foot bath, sips of sparkling wine refreshed my mouth. Through gaps between the leaves, I could glimpse the busy streets below. Later that night, after dinner, I returned for the evening scenery. So far above the roads, the noisy boulevards were muted, but the lights glittered attractively.

FUFU Tokyo Ginza designers emphasized facilitating private moments and spaces for guests. Check-in takes place within rooms. In addition to a splendid private bath, each room has a unique balcony with a garden and soft cushions. With the lights off in the evening, one can rest outside without being seen. I toured various rooms and heard crickets that were living amidst the sculptured pine trees chirp, an astonishing sound considering we were approximately 100 feet above ground level. 

Comfortable private garden balcony

My dinner at Japanese Restaurant Ginza Gayu stood out among three decades of living in Japan, including nearly two decades of travel writing that have brought me to savor mouthwatering courses crafted by acclaimed chefs at notable restaurants. My full-course meal included the following: starter, appetizer, soup, sashimi, wagyu, hot pot dish, a rice dish including eel, sweet potatoes, and perfilla, ochazuke, Japanese pickles, a final soup, and dessert. And I also enjoyed a seasonal pairing menu of fine wines and Japanese sake. The sommelier selected an Italian wine, a wine from Yamanashi, Japan, a sake from Shimane, Japan, a wine from Toyama, Japan, and my favorite, a sake from Akita, Japan. 

Expertly prepared and presented wagyu

I could watch the sashimi specialist chef artistically prepare my yummy sashimi. The most succulent was botan ebi, known in English as botan shrimp or peony shrimp.

Sashimi chef

Hosts and servers lead guests to separate rooms with views of Tokyo. I feasted while sitting on a chair by a table with a view of the fashionable neighborhood, but one dining room features sunken kotatsu-style seating. Both dinner and breakfast service were faultless. Chefs do their best to match the dietary requirements of vegans, vegetarians, Muslims, and others. I recommend contacting FUFU Tokyo Ginza in advance if you wish for special meals. 

Private dining with Tokyo cityscape views

The property has also prepared a small, intimate sushi restaurant. Unfortunately, I did not have a chance to savor its specialties. Japanese Restaurant "GINZA GAYU" (12F) welcomes both resident and non-resident guests. SUSHI GINGA (B1F) welcomes resident guests only.

SUSHI GINGA - an intimate and luxurious sushi experience

Another distinguishing feature of FUFU Tokyo Ginza was its multinational, multilingual staff. Chinese, Indonesian, Mexican, and Japanese servers prepared and explained my multicourse dinner and breakfast. These talented individuals wear name badges that display the languages they have mastered.

Executive Comfort Suite

After being spoiled by one of the best hotel meals in years, I decided to allow myself to be spoiled again in the comfort of my room for the evening, the Executive Comfort Suite. 

My private bath

The top three points of the room were the balcony, the comfortable bed, and my private onsen bath heated to 42 degrees Celsius, which is sublime for me. I stretched out to my heart's content, warmed and relaxed by the thermal mineral water. Afterward, I donned a comfy robe, lay on the outdoor bed on the balcony, and observed Tokyo through gaps in the garden's foliage. Finally, I ensconced myself in the thick, soft blankets of the wide bed inside my spacious room.

Breakfast was another feast. And then it was time to leave, but since this FUFU resort is near so many fascinating attractions in Tokyo, I strolled through Ginza and walked to the Imperial Palace. Afterward, I walked back, picked up my bag, and wandered to Tokyo Station to make my way back to Aichi. 

Main entrance to FUFU Tokyo Ginza

This was the most relaxing day and night I have ever had in busy Tokyo.

Disclaimer: FUFU Tokyo Ginza invited me to visit, stay, and enjoy the amenities for free. I did not receive money for writing this post, and I was free to write my honest impressions. If my experience had been negative, I would not have written such a positive post. 

To learn about other unique Japanese resorts run by FUFU JAPAN, click here.

Japan's Only World Heritage Hot Spring: Wakayama Prefecture's Tsuboyu

An ancient onsen bath called Tsuboyu is the only Japanese hot spring listed by the United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) as a  World Heritage Site. With thousands of years of spirituality tied to water, many Japanese onsens are awash with antiquity. At Tsuboyu, you can soak in traditions that exist nowhere else. 

For centuries, pilgrims have performed ablutions here, and so can you. Photo courtesy of Wakayama Prefecture Tourism

Location

Tsuboyu Onsen is located in a remote, tiny village called Yunomine Onsen (onsen can refer to a bath, a bathing facility, or a municipality with various bathing locations), which has a small number of inns and unique hot springs.  The Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau webpage states that "Yunomine Onsen was discovered about 1,800 years ago, and is thought to be one of the oldest hot springs in Japan." Yunomine Onsen is in a valley within the Kii Mountain Range, home to unique pilgrimage trails, shrines and temples, and springs of great antiquity. The region's significant locations comprise the Cultural World Heritage Site, officially named Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range. 

Trail sign for one of the numerous pilgrimage routes

Justification for Registration as a World Heritage Site

UNESCO explains its decision to accept Japan's request for the area to be listed as a World Heritage Site for the following reasons, stated on a UNESCO webpage:

Outstanding Universal Value Brief synthesis  

Set in the dense forests of the Kii Mountains on a peninsula in the southernmost part of mainland Japan, overlooking the Pacific Ocean, three sacred sites – Yoshino and Omine, Kumano Sanzan, and Koyasan – are linked by pilgrimage routes to the ancient capital cities of Nara and Kyoto. Together these sites, the connecting pilgrimage routes, and surrounding forests form a cultural landscape that reflect the fusion of Shintoism, rooted in the ancient tradition of nature worship in Japan, and Buddhism, which was introduced from China and the Korean Peninsula. The sacred sites are connected by 307 km of pilgrimage routes which cover a total area of 506.4 ha. With the surrounding forest landscape, they reflect a persistent and extraordinarily well-documented tradition of sacred mountains maintained over 1,200 years.

Criterion (ii) :The monuments and sites that form the cultural landscape of the Kii Mountains are a unique fusion between Shintoism and Buddhism that illustrates the interchange and development of religious cultures in East Asia.

Criterion (iii) :The Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples in the Kii Mountains, and their associated rituals, bear exceptional testimony to the development of Japan’s religious culture over more than a thousand years.

Criterion (iv) : The Kii Mountains have become the setting for the creation of unique forms of shrine and temple buildings which have had a profound influence on the building of temples and shrines elsewhere in Japan.

Criterion (vi) : Together, the sites and the forest landscape of the Kii Mountains reflect a persistent and extraordinarily well-documented tradition of sacred mountains over the past 1,200 years."

How does bathing in Tsuboyu feel?                                                                                        

 

For someone whose favorite aspect of Japan is its bathing culture, I was thrilled to bathe in the same tiny, earth-heated bathing spot that thousands of people have used over the course of thousands of years. I could (I know it is psychological) sense the history. For many Christians, Muslims, Jews, Buddhists, and others, entering sacred churches, mosques, synagogues, and temples is uplifting. That was how entering Tsuboyu felt for me.

Looking up at the roof above the spring

Getting close to nature is a spiritual experience for me, and this "bathtub" was natural. It is like a tiny cave in the ground surrounded by a basic wooden hut. The oval-shaped bath was carved into rock alongside a creek. Bathers rest upon a layer of heated rock and gravel. My toes felt hot water seeping through the gravelly rock as I stared upward at the rustic wooden ceiling. The bath would be perfect for one person and a little tight for two people, unless the two are intimately related. Three people can enter at once, but I do not recommend it. If the natural temperature is too hot, you can add some cool tap water. The water reportedly changes color with temperature and lighting differences, but when I was there, it was clear with a slight sulfur aroma.

Outside historic Tsuboyu Onsen

The history and location attract numerous visitors. To ensure visitors have a chance to bathe, bath time is limited to 30 minutes per party. Yunomine Onsen village is small, so finding the ticket booth is quick and easy. Pay 800 yen for an adult and 400 yen for a child. You will be given a number and an estimate of how much time you will have to wait. Many visitors spend less than the allotted 30 minutes soaking. While waiting, you can relax in a small shack by the bath entrance, and you might see hikers or pilgrims ascending or descending the Kumano Kodo hiking trail that passes by Tsubonoyu.

Yunomine Onsen has other bathing areas that are worth visiting. Unfortunately, I had a long journey back home and could not stay as long as I wanted, meaning I will return to try out the other baths in this mysterious area of Wakayama Prefecture, Japan. 

For directions and more information on the three public baths, a hot spring used for cooking, and the lodges with in-house onsens, examine this useful webpage prepared by the Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau.

If you are interested in bathing in one of the best cave baths in Japan, please read the following post about a hotel facility also located in Wakayama Prefecture.

Onsen (Hot Spring) Addict in Japan: Beautiful Japanese Onsen Baths in Seaside Caves

This post introduces a riverside hot spring in a town famous for traditional river rafting experiences. Onsen (Hot Spring) Addict in Japan: Riverside Onsen in Remote Kitayama, Wakayama: おくとろ温泉　やまのやど Okutoro Onsen Yamanoyado

Please write something in the comment field if you want to ask questions or recommend onsens. 

Simple, Countryside, Old Fashioned Japanese Ryokan Bath in Myoko, Niigata

I discovered a simple, pleasant bath with a wide view of mountains and greenery that combined to make me as relaxed as the proverbial wet noodle. After a wonderful day of kayaking, yoga, and hanging out with friends in and around Lake Nojiri, Nagano, I decided to cross the Nagano border and soak in an onsen in nearby Myoko, Niigata, that I had not yet visited. 

Men's outdoor bath

As shown in the photographs above and below, both the indoor bath and the outdoor bath offer clear, clean, mineral water, along with panoramic vistas. I was in the men's section, from where I saw green fields and rolling low hills. I heard birds chirping and the distinctive rhythmic buzzing of cicada conversations. My wife said that she could see majestic Mt. Kurohime from the women's section.

Men's indoor bath

Myoko Mountain Hamlet Onsen Inn Kofukan is the name of the Japanese ryokan (inn in English), which Google Maps indicated was located near the lake. The pleasant drive along the lake shore, winding mountain roads, and fields of rice, sunflowers, and pumpkins took less than fifteen minutes.

A shrine on an island in Lake Nojiriko

I was at the lake during the Japanese Obon holiday, when the Japanese travel and take vacations en masse, but Lake Nojiri was relatively untouristed compared to many other vacation sites in Japan. After Obon, the environment became even more serene. For most of my drive to the ryokan, I was the only car on the road. The few people I saw on the quiet streets of Myoko were tending their gardens or standing outside a local vegetable store.

Village and rice fields

Located in an underappreciated area, this ryokan offers excellent value for its price.  Adults pay 800 yen to enjoy the baths, as well as tranquil indoor and outdoor resting areas. Since I did not stay overnight, I cannot comment on the bedrooms and prices. I noticed as I was leaving that the ryokan offers a kashikiriburu (a private bath for couples, intimate friends, or family).

Outdoor rest area

After my bath, I rested outside while a cool breeze fluttered across my skin and gently shook the flowers near my chair. I observed butterflies and bees collecting nectar from flowers. 

 

One of the indoor rest areas

One of my Japanese friends gravitated toward the indoor resting area on the tatami floor. The small room was stocked with works of visual art. 

The Onsen Addict's feet enjoyed the mountain view.

The hotel manager informed me that the source of the mineral water was approximately nine kilometers away, located on the slopes of Mt. Myoko. The natural geothermally heated water, piped to his hotel, is about 70 degrees Celsius at the source. The outdoor bath temperature is approximately 40 degrees, while the indoor temperature is around 42 degrees Celsius. 

Hotel Entrance

The Onsen Addict recommends reading these posts about other Japanese hot springs in the Myoko area.

Free hot springs in Myoko: Onsen (Hot Spring) Addict in Japan: Free Public Outdoor Hot Springs in Myoko, Niigata

High mountain springs: Onsen (Hot Spring) Addict in Japan: Return to the Hot Springs for Swallows

A manga cafe and hot spring combination with black water: Onsen (Hot Spring) Addict in Japan: Alpen Blick Spa: A Manga Cafe - Hot Spring Combination in Myoko, Niigata

Snowshoe and Hot Spring Adventures: Onsen (Hot Spring) Addict in Japan: Snowshoe and Hot Spring Adventures in Myokokogen, Japan

Getting to Myoko: Check out this helpful site to learn how to reach Myoko. 

Alpen Blick Spa: A Manga Cafe - Hot Spring Combination in Myoko, Niigata

Do you enjoy  Japanese manga and Japanese hot springs? The アルペンブリックスパ 日帰り温泉 (Alpen Blick Spa) caters to both the lazy ambitions of those who strenuously avoid exercise and those who engage in vigorous outdoor activities in nature and need to soak tired muscles. 

This multibeneficial onsen is located in Myokokogen, Niigata, a forested, mountainous area with spectacular ski resorts, hiking trails, and snowshoeing courses. 

The outdoor bath in winter

About thirteen years had passed since I last soaked myself in the unique black mineral water of this area in winter. During my recent trip to Myoko, Niigata, I decided to revisit this manga onsen cafe after learning that the onsen at the nearby Alpen Blick Hotel was closed for cleaning. The hotel also manages this day-use onsen facility. I was unable to take photographs on this visit, so the photographs you see were taken in winter. 

The dark mineral water, approximately 40 degrees Celsius, in the outdoor bath felt just as wonderful as I recalled. The indoor bath was close to 42. 

Mineral deposits on skin

After telling one of my friends about this hot spring, he told me, 

"That cafe is the perfect place to park my wife." His comment may not sound like something a loving husband would say, but he genuinely has her interests at heart. He loves skiing aggressively from when the lift lines open until they are closed; in contrast,  she loves reading manga, watching Japanese anime, and lazing the day away. Located close to numerous ski resorts, the Alpen Blick Spa solves their problems. From the vantage point of a hot spring connoisseur, the hot spring is worth the money, too. Adults pay 800 yen for use of the facilities, while the rate for elementary school students and younger is 400 yen. 

The Alpen Blick Spa is a manga lover's paradise with a hot outdoor hot bath with a mountain view, an indoor hot bath with a forest view, an icily cold indoor bath, and a hinoki (檜) scented sauna. Hinoki is the Japanese word for the Japanese cypress tree. It has a fragrant, refreshing aroma that rises with the steam. Many saunas and bathtubs are constructed with cypress wood. After bathing, if you still need to unwind, you can relax on foam cushions in a "sleeping room," transform into a vegetable in a massage chair, or lie on tatami mats after indulging in a cafeteria meal. If a part of your body still desires movement, let it be the eyes. They can read magazines or manga from the library, browse the Internet, or watch large-screen TV monitors while their other body parts vegetate.

Many Japanese hot spring facilities provide "relaxing rooms," kyuukejo（休憩所), for their already relaxed customers to reach the ultimate realm of relaxation. Relaxing is challenging work and requires lots of practice. In fact, many Japanese college students are earnest about their relaxation training and do not waste time in class studying. Those interested in researching the amazing Japanese ability to sleep almost anywhere, anytime, and in any position are recommended to examine the Facebook page titled Nobody Sleeps Like the Japanese Do. Perhaps, feeling confident that no one will steal their belongings helps the Japanese to sleep deeply wherever and whenever. They have an almost nonhuman ability to sleep in public spaces.  

Sleeping in Public in the kyuukejo （休憩所)

Riverside Onsen in Remote Kitayama, Wakayama: おくとろ温泉 やまのやど Okutoro Onsen Yamanoyado

This gorgeous onsen, above a forested river in the remote Japanese countryside, stimulates deep breaths of fresh air, soothes stiff muscles, and promotes chilling out.

Gorgeous river, sky, and mountain views

I went to Kitayama, Wakayama, to experience a log rafting tour. Wakayama prefecture's natural beauty and lush forests astounded me. Wakayama attracts many Japanese tourists, who are more familiar with its historical, cultural, and geological attractions than most foreign visitors and residents of Japan. A surprisingly small percentage of foreign tourists explore this area, which boasts lush greenery, clear rivers, and friendly people. 

Ride traditional rafts made from local logs

Most visitors to Kitayama come for one of the best river experiences to be had in Japan, riding log rafts made and steered by locals on the Kitayama River through the vibrant forests and a clear gorge within the Yoshino-Kumano National Park. Kitayama Village is the only location in Japan for this trip. Check out this excellent video of traditional log rafting available only in Wakayama, Japan. To learn about other adventures in Kitayama, check out the Kitayama Travel Magazine.

I wasn't sure where to stay in Kitayama, but acquaintances in Wakayama recommended cottage-like accommodations at Okutoro Onsen Yamanoyado.  Immediately after check-in, I grabbed a towel from my room and headed to the indoor and outdoor baths for my first soaks of the journey before I was scheduled to meet another journalist. 

Okutoro Onsen's indoor bath comes with an expansive view

The bath is situated on the riverbank. Standing up on the edge of the rocks around the bath, I could look down into a small green valley. The river flowed slowly, branches swayed in the wind, and mist slipped through gaps in the forested peaks above. 

Calm section of the Kitayama River

Sitting with my back against the rocks, I found a stream of hot water pulsing through a small opening. Adjusting my position, I received a satisfying massage from the pressure of the hot mineral water. In the mid-afternoon, before most other guests checked in, I relished this pleasure in peaceful solitude. 

Peaceful river reflections

Before darkness fell across the surrounding mountains, I took a short walk around the hotel. There were no traffic sounds. The air was mountain clean and misty. Small foggy clouds wound their way through the tree tops and nearby peaks. 

Okutoro Onsen Yamanoyado

View from the bedroom 

The rooms were spacious, tidy, and well-illuminated by sunrays during the day. At night, the only sounds I heard were night birds and insects enjoying themselves in the relatively natural surroundings. 

View while strolling between the hotel and the river

Blessed with abundant rivers, streams, and waterfalls and a population of less than 400 people, Kitayama Village is a serene sanctuary from the stress of modern life.

Kitayama log rafting was one of the most thrilling river adventures I have had in Japan. The experience alternated between running rapids between boulders and cruising peacefully by waterfalls, flower and moss-covered rocks, and calm stretches of river. My friends and I were soaked and cold but exhilarated when we landed our rafts and returned by bus to our accommodations and onsens. 

The onsens quickly heated our bodies, and we left Kitayama Village deeply reinvigorated and warmed. 

To learn about other wonderful riverside onsens, click on the links below.

Onsen (Hot Spring) Addict in Japan: Waterfalls, Autumn Leaves, and the Beautiful Baths of Oigami Onsen, Gunma

Onsen (Hot Spring) Addict in Japan: First-Class Private Riverside Baths for Kanreki and other Extraordinary Occasions

Onsen (Hot Spring) Addict in Japan: Secret Private Hot Spring

Onsen (Hot Spring) Addict in Japan: Free Public Outdoor Hot Springs in Myoko, Niigata

Onsen (Hot Spring) Addict in Japan: Best Japanese Hot Spring in Nature

Raft and onsen photographs provided by Kitayama Village.

Greg Goodmacher, also known as the Onsen Addict, took the other photographs.

Beautiful Indoor and Outdoor Private and Public Onsen Baths at Resonate Club Kuju

 

To experience indoor and outdoor baths offering expansive vistas in a mountainous setting, come soak at Resonate Club Kuju. It is a unique resort at an elevation of 860 meters in the Aso-Kuju National Park in Kyushu, Japan. Daytrippers and overnighters are welcome. 

The resort offers a variety of accommodations, ranging from rooms that combine Japanese and Western comforts to geodesic dome glamping, situated amidst lush grasslands and rolling hills.

The interior of the glamping accommodation

Front view of one of the glamping domes

The first bath of my stay was an evening immersion in one of the kashikiriburus, meaning private baths. These baths can be reserved for one-hour intervals. Although I am crazy about almost all styles of bathing in Japan, there are times when I enjoy being alone. This was one of those times. Kashikiriburos are a perfect solution for couples or families who are uncomfortable bathing in the nude with strangers. Private baths are also helpful for tattooed individuals who might not be allowed to enter the communal baths. 

The color of mineral water filling the private baths indicates a high concentration of iron

That night, I had the pleasure of staying in one of the glamping tents, a few minutes uphill from the main resort building and bathing areas. Located far from cities and busy roads, the night was aflame with energetic stars. Walking to the kashikiriburo, I felt the coolness of the high-altitude location, so I hurriedly entered the indoor bath, which chased the chill away. Then, I went outside and lay in the shallow outdoor bath with my head pointed to the inky black sky awash with sparkling pin pricks of brilliant stars. A cold breeze teased the exposed parts of my body, but the naturally flowing hot mineral water kept my body relaxed as the sky provided a mesmerizing show. The water is thick with soothing minerals. The heat seems to stay in your body long after leaving the baths. You'll likely have a long, deep sleep in the evening. I did. 

Notice the crystallization of minerals in the bath water

The next morning, I woke up to views that made me pop out of bed. After a nice roasty cup of freshly ground and brewed coffee, I walked back to the resort to consume an extensive buffet breakfast of Japanese and Western dishes. 

Morning view from my luxurious tent

Sated and feeling good, I decided to enter the communal baths before departing. The timing was perfect. Since most other guests had checked out early. I had the community baths all to myself.

Sunrise plus hot water equals happiness

The sun poured through expansive windows surrounding the indoor bath. I could sunbathe and waterbathe. 

Steam and sky reflections

Getting There: This onsen resort is remote, so I suggest renting a car. Keep in mind that there are no restaurants or convenience stores nearby. You will be surrounded by grassy fields, trees, mountains, and vast vistas. 

Activities: If you like being outdoors, fresh air, and exercise, this is the place for you. Horseback riding, hiking, bicycling, and all sorts of other outdoor sports, including tandem paragliding, are available in the national park. For more information on what you can see and do in the vicinity, click here. I suggest viewing one of Japan's best taiko groups perform in an outdoor theater on a mountain plateau. Drum Tao is a mindblowing, creative, and energizing Japanese group of drummers and dancers. 

More nearby Japanese onsens: 

Onsen (Hot Spring) Addict in Japan: Joyful Yuraku Onsen 湯楽温泉

Onsen (Hot Spring) Addict in Japan: A Garden of Hot Springs at Aso Farm Land

Onsen (Hot Spring) Addict in Japan: Mixed Sex BathingーTo Wear Swimsuits or Be Naked: Suzume-no-yu Onsen in Kumamoto

Japanese contact information for the resort: 

878-0202 大分県竹田市久住町大字有氏1773 　 TEL.0974-76-1223　FAX.0974-76-1460

English contact information for the resort:

Resonate Club Kuju, Taketa, Japan.

Joyful Yuraku Onsen 湯楽温泉

The joyful public open-air bath

The joy of bathing is expressed with these Japanese kanji, 湯楽, pronounced Yuraku. And Yuraku Onsen is the name of a delightful public hot spring facility in Kumamoto. This onsen is gensenkakenagashi (源泉かけ流し), meaning the thermal mineral water flows continuously from its underground source.  No substances are added, and the water is not recirculated. 

                       Bath connected to a private room

I noticed a slippery softness to the mineral water that flows naturally through the indoor and outdoor baths. The water texture left my skin smooth and supple. 

Despite being a small community bathing hangout, the designers created separate spaces for different baths, each with a unique atmosphere. 

One of the indoor baths

There is also a pleasing mist sauna, which helps people like me who suffer from hay fever. I walked into the changing room with congested nasal passages but exited the building able to breathe deeply and easily. What a relief!

The outdoor bath is surrounded by walls, and a simple wooden canopy several meters high hangs above about two-thirds of the spacious tub. The rest is open to the Kumamoto stars, clouds, and sun.

After heating myself in the hot bath, I decided to cool down and lie face upward on a bench by the bath. Staring upwards into the clouds, childhood memories came flooding into my thoughts. 

Rest on a bench and fantasize about clouds

If you are an older adult like me, you might recall staring at the sky, finding magical creatures in cloud formations, and sharing those discoveries with your childhood friends. But then, as you got older and focused on "the real world" to make a living, you stopped looking at clouds, and the power of your imagination declined. 

The combination of heat, coolness, and a drowsy, relaxed state brought me back to those days. I could have spent hours bathing, staring at drifting clouds, and exercising my long-forgotten imagination. It was a healing experience. I didn't want to leave. 

                                         Comfortable rock-lined indoor bath                                                                  

Yuraku Onsen is one of numerous hot spring facilities comprising the Aso Uchi no maki Onsen area, within the boundaries of Japan's magnificent Aso-Kuju National Park. If you want to experience nature and outdoor sports within Japan, this is one of the best places. Just before bathing, I tried tandem paragliding for the first time. It was a leap of faith and a jump off the edge of one of Earth's largest calderas. This park offers enriching physical and mental stimulation and deep relaxation. 

Jumping into space

Flying above the valley

Bathing and resting at Yuraku are a bargain. For 500 yen, or about US$ 4.50 at the time of writing, you can bathe, read manga, peruse magazines, or chat with staff and other visitors. Before departing, I enjoyed a friendly conversation about onsens across Japan with the reception worker and several guests.

If public bathing makes you uncomfortable, Yuraku offers the choice of kazokuyu (家族湯), which translates as family baths. Up to three adults and two children can enter a private bathing space for one hour. The admission fee is 2,300 yen, or US$16.20 at the exchange rate on the day I wrote this post.

Overnighting is also possible. Weekday rates are 12,000 yen for a couple, and weekends and holidays cost 14,000 yen, $84.72 for the former and $98.83 for the latter. This is an absolute bargain considering that unlimited soaking in private baths is included. 

Opening Hours 13:00-22:00 / Open daily except Tuesdays 

Address: Kumamoto Prefecture, Aso City, Uchimaki 1126-1

Telephone: 0967-24-6090

Other Wonderful Hot Springs within the Aso-Kuju National Park

A nearby onsen facility I also recommend is Aso Farm Land. 

Onsen (Hot Spring) Addict in Japan: Mixed Sex BathingーTo Wear Swimsuits or Be Naked: Suzume-no-yu Onsen in Kumamoto

 

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