Mixed Sex BathingーTo Wear Swimsuits or Be Naked: Suzume-no-yu Onsen in Kumamoto

 

Around three decades ago, my Japanese wife brought me to Suzume-no-yu, a traditional hot spring within the boundaries of Kyushu's Aso-Kujo National Park. It was my first time bathing naked or almost naked with men and women that I had never met before. But soaking unclothed in the hot mineral water of this konyoku, which means a mixed-sex bathing area, felt natural and relaxing. 

Many bathers didn't cover any skin. Some bathers, like me, had tiny towels that just barely covered our privates. I held my towel before me while walking around the outdoor bath, but not everyone did. I remember elderly ladies nonchalantly soaking with breasts fully visible and younger ladies barely covering theirs. No one stared, made rude comments, seemed embarrassed, or hid their bodies. We were all at peace with our bodies.

View of a cold water bath in front of the mineral-laden, roof-covered onsen

So I was shocked when I recently returned and discovered all the bathers wearing swimming suits. Japan has changed considerably in the last thirty years.  

Why should humans feel ashamed of our bodies when our bodies are natural? Our genitalia are not shameful appendages. They are necessary for the continuation of our species. You could consider them gifts from evolution, gods, or whatever power you believe in. 

I wrote questions to the management to learn why this once-traditional Japanese onsen now requires swimming suits. My questions and his answers are below.

 When did management decide to require swimsuits in the mixed baths?

They made this decision after reopening Suzume-no-yu following the devastating Kumamoto earthquake of April 16, 2019. 

Why did they decide to require swimsuits in the mixed baths?

In the past, we used to take baths naked. We also had a women-only hour at night. Before the earthquake, buildings, and walls around Suzume-no-Yu shielded the mixed-sex bath from the view of outsiders walking around the bathing area, so there was no problem with communal nudity. However, the earthquake destroyed those fences and surrounding buildings. Without those barriers, the open view from the baths was so wonderful that we decided to reopen the baths. With those conditions, we thought female customers could relax and enjoy their stay in peace by wearing swimsuits. We decided not to conceal ourselves behind a fence but to wear swimsuits.

Did Japanese or foreign customers request mandatory swimsuit-wearing before management made that decision?

Japanese people believed that onsen baths were to be taken in the nude, so there were no such requests. There were no specific requests from foreigners either.

After making swimsuits mandatory, did they receive positive or negative feedback from Japanese or foreigners about wearing swimsuits? 

Positive Comments - Female guests welcomed the change. Family guests said it was nice to be able to enter together. Male customers also commented that they could relax and not worry about other people, especially women. 

Negative comments - Some male guests commented that it was bothersome to wear clothes and that it was neither tasteful nor comfortable.

How much is day use, and how much does it cost for private rooms with private baths? 

   

    Entrance fees for day use of the spa are as follows: Adults 2,000 yen, students 1,800 yen,

    elementary school students 800 yen, infants free.

    Room accommodations with private open-air (half-open-air) baths in separate buildings are 

    41,950 yen/person ~ (2 meals included for two).

Curious to know what other Japanese foreign and native residents think about bathing in mixed-sex Japanese hot springs without swimsuits, I asked for comments on a LinkedIn post and discussed this topic with a few friends. 

Most of the small number of answers indicate a reluctance to nude bathing. Some men do not want other men to see their naked wives and daughters. One woman expressed her hope that Japan would not lose its tradition of men and women bathing naked together. Another person suggested a compromise in which onsen rules allow bathers the freedom to either bathe in suits or au naturel. An important point was the fear of strangers taking photographs and uploading them to the web. I heard this years ago when I asked people in Gero Onsen why an open-air bath for men and women required bathing suits. One resident said that some people would stand on a bridge with views of the baths and take photographs or videos. Conversely, the rare rude bather would purposely expose his body to families walking on the bridge. 

The fear of being photographed while innocently bathing and having one's body exposed on the internet shows the pernicious influence of smartphones and SNS on bathing culture. 

I predict the number of public baths where naked men and women can bathe together in a relaxed environment will continue to decrease. A few onsens allowing traditional mixed-sex bathing will survive by fulfilling a need for the niche bather, one who seeks out this bathing style. I mourn the loss of traditional bathing customs but understand the feelings of those who are uncomfortable with naked bathing. Luckily, couples and families wishing to be together in Japanese onsens can rent private baths in some locations. Such private baths are called kashikiriburos. If you stay at a Japanese hotel or ryokan, ask if they have them. Sometimes, they are not well advertised in English. Beppu, Oita, is well known for many facilities offering kashikiriburos.

Although I regret the imposition of bathing suit regulations, I still recommend Suzume-no-yu Onsen for its unique water. The main public bath feels great. Sitting in the water, you can smell sulfur and feel thick mineral sediments. Some people like to soak their hands in the mud at the bottom of the baths and leave handprints on beams supporting the roof. The location is far from towns and noisy roads. The recently renewed lodging accommodations are rustically attractive.

Hikers will enjoy nearby walking routes. One path leads from the onsen up the mountain to locations where hot steam and bubbling, boiling water rise from the earth. If you have never seen this before, it is worth a visit. The hike continues through woods to the edge of a grassy plateau where local cattle and horses graze. This is part of the spectacular Aso-Kuju National Park. 

This extensive, volcanic parkland has many Japanese onsens and other natural relaxing activities. Travelers in Japan who appreciate nature will be delighted to travel about the park. 

A nearby onsen facility I also recommend is Aso Farm Land. 

Suzume-no-Yu is located on the edge of Minamiaso, Kumamoto. Because of its remote location, driving is the best way to get there. 

Probably, Japan's largest mix-sex bath is Sukayu Onsen in Aomori. 

All photographs except the one at the bottom were provided by Suzume-no-yu Onsen at my request. 

Hotspringaddict did not receive any money or services from the managers of this onsen for this positive review. 

A Garden of Hot Springs at Aso Farm Land

 

One of many indoor bathing areas. This type of bath is called goemonburo.

Aso Farm Land, an unusual resort on the caldera floor within the Aso-Kuju National Park, surprised, exhilarated, and relaxed me. I was on a press trip to learn more about the park, and someone else had chosen the accommodations. We arrived late at night, and I knew very little about the resort. I stepped out of the vehicle into the black night. The vibrant shining of stars above amazed me. In this rural area, illuminated pachinko parlors, convenience stores, and vending machines are rare, so light pollution does not obscure the heavens. 

Early morning outside the domed accommodations at Aso Farm Land

While checking in, I noticed photographs of hot spring baths. Immediately after dropping my bag off in the hobbit home-like building that was my stay for the night, I walked through the resort to the bathing area, where I was once again delighted. In over thirty years of living and obsessively bathing in Japanese onsens, I have found few locations in remote areas with so many choices for heating, soaking, and massaging my body.

A variety of indoor baths

The indoor bathing area was large enough for about thirty bathers to maintain their own private spaces. If the indoor area with wood-scented Goemon tubs, herbal, jacuzzi, other baths, and a steamy hot sauna were all that were available, I would have felt satisfied. 

But there was much more. I passed through a doorway leading outside to a kingdom of open-air baths, my favorites. I was on a 150m wooden walkway leading through a rock garden to outdoor baths that appeared around each curve of the trail. 

Walkway through a field of open-air baths

The number of baths and saunas was around twenty. One can spend an entire day soaking, heating up, cooling, napping, and repeating the relaxing process.

The photograph above shows two ladies walking on the wooden platform that winds through the magnificent field of baths.  You can see the rim of a volcanic caldera in the background. I was there when mountains were not visible at night, but brilliant stars piercing the black-as-ink night held a hypnotic power that, combined with the hot water, gave me a natural high.

The Aso Kuju Park includes much of the Aso Caldera, one of the world's largest. We must thank the surrounding volcanoes for their beauty, and the constant supply of geothermally heated mineral water. 

Hot milky white sulfur bath near a round herbal bath

Creative Hotel Design

Aso Farm Lands is a huge outdoor resort area with areas for sports, games, and interacting with various animals. I can only review the hot springs since I left early in the morning to view the sunrise from the top of one side of the caldera, which was another fantastic experience. 

Here comes the sun and other rejuvenating vistas

Check out their website for the costs and other information about Aso Farmlands.

Aso Farm Land did not provide me with money or services for this positive review of its baths and hotel design. I was honestly impressed by the creative bathing arrangements. The hotel provided the first, third, fourth, and fifth photographs from the top after I requested them. The other pictures are the property of the Hotspring Addict. 

Access to Aso Farm Land

The address is 5579-3 Kawayo, Minamiaso Village, Aso District, Kumamoto Prefecture 869-1404. As mentioned above, the resort is located within the Aso Kuju National Park in Kyushu. The park is in both Oita and Kumamoto Prefectures. The closest airport is Aso Kumamoto Airport, which you can reach from most of Japan's major airports. 

Recommended Japanese Onsen near Aso Farmlands

I recommend Lamune Onsen for its artistic design and naturally carbonated mineral water. 

Beautiful Japanese Onsen Baths in Seaside Caves

Imagine yourself inside a cavern with the aroma of hot sulfurous water bubbling into Japanese baths and views of the Pacific Ocean. The cave opens three meters above sea level, so the roar of unrestrained marine movement enters the cave along with cooling sea breezes. Rolling waves splash onto islets, sending splatters of white sea foam toward the blue sky. 

Cave baths at Spa Bokido, Wakayama Prefecture, Japan

The contrast of natural hot water warming your entire body and the glimpses of the cold sea outside stimulate and refresh. You are soaking in an onsen facility that stands out in a country with thousands of hot springs. The photograph above shows Spa Bokido, one of the two cave bathing areas at Hotel Urashima. The hotel's other cave for bathing is named Spa Genbudo. Both are mind-blowing yet rejuvenating.

Spa Genbudo

Hotel Urashima Resort and Spa is a sprawling complex of four buildings connected by tunnels and long hallways on a peninsula along Katsuura Bay, a quiet tuna fishing town in Wakayama, Prefecture. A cute boat carries passengers from Katsura Port to the hotel for free. The atmospheric ride is only five or ten minutes. You'll pass Japan's largest tuna market and listen to the screech of black kites circling above the bay or perched on poles while seeking prey from the sea. 

Spa Hamayuu

Spa Bokido is the main attraction for onsen addicts like me. Nearly all guidebooks specializing in Japanese onsens include Bokido. Coming here was a long-time goal. Although Nachikatsuura is famous for its World Heritage Sites, including sections of Kumanokodo, a celebrated pilgrimage route, not many tourists visit it due to its remote location. Luckily, I had a work assignment that brought me nearby. When the job finished, I headed toward Hotel Urashima to fulfill an onsen lover's dream.

Spa Isonoyu

Having to catch a train to return home at noon,  I just had time for a higaeri onsen experience, or a short day trip. My time was limited to exploring and enjoying only two bathing areas, while the hotel has at least six spa facilities. Sections of the building are in caves. The slightly aged resort hotel would have been an appropriate setting for a James Bond movie from the sixties. It reminded me of scenes from You Only Live Twice. A Shinto wedding scene that appeared in the film was filmed nearby. 

Spa Takinoyu features a waterfall pouring into the bath

The day-use fee was 1,500 yen, around 10 USD, and if I hadn't had to catch a train, I could have spent almost the entire day there. Bokido was my goal, and I was so happy while walking through a long underground corridor to the locker room, where I undressed and stepped through the doors to the cavernous bathing area, which held at least six baths. The sun entering the cave was bright at the opening; bathers at the bath closest to the sea were silhouetted by the glow, a memorable view. A walk through a tunnel brought me to another section where three more baths were located. Despite approximately thirty or forty bathers, everyone had enough space and privacy to stretch out and relax. 

One of the long hallways in the sprawling resort complex

I entered Bokido around nine in the morning, and it would close at ten for cleaning, so after relishing the beauty of this exceptional onsen, I headed at a little before ten for Spa Genbudo, which was empty. I was the only bather for about fifteen minutes. The long, narrow bath was white and sulfurous, but I discovered that the hot water pouring into a rock-lined bath at the outer lip of the cave was clear. It was either filtered or from a different source. The view was also spectacular. I spotted an arch at the tip of a tiny peninsula jutting into the sea in front of me, and I could also hear kites screeching in the sky as they circled above me. Two others, one Japanese and one French, joined me in the bath. We exchanged head nods and silently absorbed and appreciated being in the moment in one of Japan's best bathing areas.  

Spa Youhounoyu offers splendid mountain- and seascapes

Transportation to the hotel from Katsuura Pier

View from the boat heading to the onsen resort

Getting There:

The closest airport is Nanki-Shirahama Airport, and Kii-Katsuura Station is the nearest train station. Walking to Katsuura Pier takes about fifteen minutes, but taxis gather at the tiny train station when trains arrive.

More on coastal hot springs

Japan has numerous hot springs on its coast. Look below for links to some others I have written about. I would love to read your comments and suggestions regarding Japanese onsens. Please write something in the comment section of this blog. Thanks for reading. 

Onsen (Hot Spring) Addict in Japan: Multisensory Pleasures in Hot Springs on the Izura Coast

Onsen (Hot Spring) Addict in Japan: Adventures On the Way to a Bath

Onsen (Hot Spring) Addict in Japan: Seaside Japanese Hot Spring on Yakushima, Kagoshima

Onsen (Hot Spring) Addict in Japan: Hot Spring on an Island (Ioujima, Nagasaki)

Photographs of the baths were provided by the hotel. I took the other pictures. My positive review of the hotel was unpaid. I received nothing in exchange and paid my entrance fee. 

The Premier Hot Spring Artist of Arima Onsen

Bathers can slide the shoji to view a garden and listen to flowing water.

After being invited to assist a Canadian company in making a documentary about Japanese onsens, I spent a few soothing nights in Arima Onsen. Much of my "work" time was spent in baths, peering into baths, and studying baths. Several baths were especially notable for their beauty and creativity. I would call some of those baths, designed for both able-bodied and disabled individuals, inspirational artworks. The man responsible for these one-of-a-kind baths is Hironobu Kanai.

Kanai wants everyone to benefit from Japanese onsens' relaxing and healing powers. His teacher, mentor, and long-time friend suffered from a severe illness. He asked Kanai to design baths that even very ill people could enjoy. Kanai took that suggestion to heart. Besides designing baths for everyone to enjoy, he also had his staff learn how to best care for guests with special needs. 

The wooden wall slides away to reveal a system that carries disabled individuals into the bath.

Kanai is the descendant of a ryokan-running family that has lived in Arima for at least 15 generations. He generously arranged for us to enter areas of the town that are usually off-limits and allowed us to visit several private baths at his incredible ryokan, Tocen Goshoboh, and other associated properties: Hotel Hanakoyado and Gosho Besso.

The railing and gentle slope from a private room allow easy access to this bird's nest-like bath.

The creativity, dedication to history, and attention to detail Kanai applies to his onsen designs lead to astounding bathing experiences. The bath in the picture directly above was inspired by the legend that Arima Onsen was discovered by crows. The same legend and details of Japanese bathing history and culture are expressed in the intricate tile work shown in the images below. 

The photograph below shows one bath Kanai planned so men and women can enjoy being together while maintaining their own spaces. A sloping wall allows companions on each side to converse and watch each other. Shy people can stay behind the higher wall sections. 

Rooms and Food

The baths, meals, and rooms are spectacular. The photographs below show some of the incredible dishes and rooms his hotels provide guests. These photographs show only a tiny slice of the entire range of accommodations and amenities. 

Prices: Rates vary depending on the type of room, number of guests, and the season. Check rates with your preferred travel website or contact Tocen Goshoboh directly at http://goshoboh.com. 

Getting to Arima Onsen:

Click here for directions from Kansai International Airport, Osaka, Kyoto, and Himeji.

Disclosure: I stayed one night and enjoyed dinner and breakfast for free. But I would still rave about the facilities here even if I did not receive such generosity. I am honestly impressed. 

One of the Best Hot Springs on Aichi Prefecture's Chita Peninsula

The blues and roses of the sunset sky melted with the arrival of stars above. Lights from night-fishing squid boats bounced and glittered on the horizon when I tilted my head downward. I was sitting in a traditional Japanese cedar-wood bath on the tenth-floor roof of a gorgeous Japanese-style hotel named Genji Koh in Minamichita, Japan. If you are driving along the coastal road, look for the sign below. Directions for drivers and train riders are here. My friends and I were searching for an onsen for an evening soak and chose to try this one because of the seaside location and the hotel's attractive exterior. Many fine Japanese hotels allow both overnighters and visitors to enjoy the baths. We paid 1,600 yen (around US $11.00 at writing time) to enjoy the baths, a relaxation room, and towels. 

Two birds called to each other in their private language somewhere in the sky. When the birds ceased conversing, I  heard gentle waves rhythmically slapping Yamami Dolphin Beach below. A gentle wind off the sea kept my head cool while I soaked in the higher-than-40-degree warmth of a natural Japanese onsen.

My evening goal was to test the temperature and mood of each bath.

Each one was soothing.

The ripples spreading across the surface of the hot water surface represented the stress fleeing my body and soul as the view and Earth's thermal goodness worked their healing magic on me. According to the hotel's information, the spring water contains sodium, calcium, chloride, and saline that help cure or reduce pains related to arthritis, neuralgia, and poor circulation. 

Wellness experiences like these are the principal reason I  reside in Japan. Other incentives are the beauty of Japanese art and the deliciousness of superb restaurants  I discover in remote locations, often by chance. Not only did the hotel have soothing baths with expansive natural vistas, but the owners had filled the lobby and hallways with gorgeous arts and crafts, for example, check out the closeup photograph of a traditional kimono on display in the hotel. 

This magnificent afternoon started with taking guests to a seaside pizza restaurant I guessed would be worth visiting. Pizzeria Passo Avanti blew us away with the sea view from the dining room and sensational cooking. The head chef apparently won pizza-making awards in Italy. Notice the trophy in the image below the pizza maker. 

      

The area I have written about in this post is part of the Chita Penisula, south of Nagoya. Despite being close to the Chubu Centrair International Airport (which has an airport bathing facility), only a few international visitors know much about this charming region. Another incredible aspect of Chita Penisula is the considerable number of days ending with gorgeous sunsets. 

Sunset and a nori seaweed farm

A fisherman watches the sun dance on the horizon

If you are in Nagoya City and need refreshment, try the bathing facilities below, but the information needs updating.

Raku Spa Garden

Nagoya Crown Hotel

Dainagoyaonsen

Healthy Black Water in Tokyo Community Onsen: Mikokuyu Onsen

Many community bathing facilities have Mt. Fuji illustrations

Mikokuyu Onsen is one of many soothing community onsens scattered throughout the busy hodgepodge of the Greater Tokyo Metropolitan Area. 

Despite being close to the popular, densely-touristed Asakusa Temple area, Mikokuyu is a friendly oasis for locals and sojourners seeking serenity in hectic Tokyo, stress reduction, and the pleasant sensation of a clean, rejuvenated body.  

Relaxed elegance on the 4th floor

Mikokuyu's naturally black mineral water is from a source of hot water that lies just one hundred meters below the concrete sidewalks and asphalt roadways you encounter everywhere in the urban jungle of Tokyo City. "The mineral-rich water is stained by leaves and other organic materials in the soil," explained a staff person at the entrance counter. 

Depending on the material of the different onsen tubs, the water may appear purplish, black, or the color of a cup of strong black tea. 

The semi-outside bath in the corner was my favorite of the three bathing areas I tried in the men's section. Wooden slats permitted privacy while letting cool air in, steam escape, and bathers enjoy views of the sky. I could view Tokyo Sky Tree in the distance. 

Fifth-floor bath for the elderly and disabled. Reservations required.

The onsen has more baths than I could experience during my one limited-time visit, so I plan to return for more bathing research. There are jet baths, bubble baths, a sauna, and an open-air bath. 

This is a hangout for locals, but visitors are welcome. According to reviews, this onsen does not shun visitors with tattoos. 

The entrance to relaxation and cleanliness in Tokyo

Admission for adults is 460 yen and 180 yen for children. Towels and robes can also be rented.  Considering the quality of the water, the beauty of the old building that has been renovated quite stylishly, and the care that goes into maintenance and cleaning, fees are amazingly low. 

Mikokuyu is located in Sumida-ku, Tokyo.  The nearest subway station is Honjo- azumabashi Station, which is on the Toei Asakusa Line. From there, you can walk to the onsen in approximately ten minutes.

Location on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/a9EfNV5VoMXxtkyD8

Myoko Kogen in Niigata Prefecture has another amazing onsen with black water. This one is in a mountainous area. To learn more, read this post and then go to Myoko for a more immersive experience. 

Japanese onsens come in a variety of colors. This post discusses this colorful topic.

Do you have comments or recommendations on Japanese onsens? Please write them in the comment section below. Thank you in advance.