Saturday, February 23, 2013

Sainokawara Onsen, One of the Best Japanese Hot Springs


Although the air temperature was -6°C, I was lying naked on a submerged wooden platform in the center of one of the best outdoor baths in Japan, Sainokawara Onsen. The exposed hairs on my chest and head were frozen, but my body was comfortably hot. It was the afternoon before Christmas Day in Kusatsu, Gunma Prefecture, a town that is renowned throughout Japan for being one of the top three onsen resort areas in Japan.
Air Temperature was -6°C
I turned over and rested on my stomach. My face, just barely above the water, faced sideways. I could look around without the bluish-green sulfurous mineral water stinging my eyes. About a dozen men were relaxing, meditating, or maybe melting, in the large oval hot spring bath. It was approximately twenty-five meters long by ten meters wide. A hundred men or more could stretch out without bumping into another.

Rocks of varying shapes and sizes were perfectly arranged around the bath to make it seem like a pond. The location was a quiet snowy valley surrounded by Japanese pine trees with branches laden with white snow. Here and there, handcrafted stone lanterns evoked the atmosphere of a Japanese garden. Steam swirled a few meters in the air before dissipating. At one end of the bath, hot water cascaded down a small waterfall into the pool. Except for the sound of moving water, there was silence in the valley.


Hot water also poured from bamboo pipes into the bath, providing a water-powered massage, known as 打たせ湯 (utaseyu). I sat under one of the spouts of water, expecting to be able to enjoy a back and shoulder massage, but the temperature was almost too hot to endure, so I moved a few inches away. When I later went to the dressing room, I saw that everyone’s skin below the neck was boiled-shrimp red. I neglected to ask the management for the temperature of the water. Still, from experience, I estimate the cooler areas to be approximately 41 degrees with the hottest sections at around 44 degrees. The highest temperatures were close to the thin line between pleasure and pain.


Taking photographs of hot springs for this blog is not easy. The steam often fogs the camera lenses or obscures the beauty of the baths. I also hesitate to take photographs that show other people, since I should respect their privacy. However, there was one nice man who offered to take my photo for me. We chatted for a few moments, and I found the courage to tell him about this blog and asked his permission to take his photograph. He allowed me to take pictures and to use them here. If he is reading this blog, I want to tell him again that I am grateful for his assistance.


In addition to experiencing the unique Sainokawara Onsen, Kusatsu has many reasons to visit: lovely traditional buildings, other fantastic baths, hiking trails, mountainous vistas, and a museum about hot springs. Kusatsu also has a musical tradition, related to hot springs, that does not exist anywhere else. Until then, happy bathing! If you can’t wait to learn more about Kusatsu Onsen, click here

Another incredible and ancient hot spring with water temperatures above those of the average Japanese onsen is Shika Onsen.

2 comments:

  1. It is not only the heat of the hot water but also the quality of the Kusatsu hot spring water that gives men's skins red.

    The feature of Kusatsu spa water is nothing but its strong acidity. The distribution sources count several in the place. More center the source locates, more mild its acidity, and vice versa. So, someone who wants to make his badget cheaper must find the lodget far away from the town center that gives him stronger acid water in soaking at his lodge spa.

    The strong acidity of Kusatsu hot spring water is welcomed by some of the Japanese women who seek to have peeling effect of their skin. But they don't know the long-living local tradition of Kusatsu onsen bathers. When people bath the acid spa for some period, then to recover the skin condition, they also soak one of the other hot spring resorts for some nights after Kusatsu onsen. Those are located at the suburb of Kusatsu such as Shima Onsen which has gentle water for skin.

    Of course, in this modern age, it's quite difficult to followed the traditional custom. But you are focusing on onsen as your pastime, how about the idea digging up more deep the features and traditions of onsen. That will give your blog hot !

    Taro

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    Replies
    1. Thanks, Taro, for your contribution to my blog. I plan on writing more about Kusatsu Onsen in the near future. Unfortunately, my full-time job keeps me very busy, so I cannot write as much as I want. Please keep on giving me your feedback. I really appreciate it.

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