Tuesday, June 20, 2023

Wellness in Mie and East Nara: Hiking to Waterfalls and Soaking in a Japanese Onsen

 

An indoor bath with forest views

Vast stretches of lush green forests, sparkling rivers, and mountains with soothing hot springs make the border of Mie Prefecture and the eastern section of Nara Prefecture a go-to location for wellness adventures. After a refreshing day of forest strolling, soaking in Hotel Sansuien's hot baths, and savoring healthy local cuisine, months of accumulated big-city-induced stress melted away. This soothing experience took place in the outskirts of the verdant city of Nabari, Mie.

After receiving towels in the main building on the exquisite Japanese garden grounds of Sansuien, my friend and I walked outside. Peering at the gate leading to the bathing facilities, I could not stop feeling ukiuki, which is Japanese for excitement, happiness, or cheerfulness. The thoughtful designers of the garden and hotel created a harmonious atmosphere that blends with the natural surroundings and respects the heritage of the area. 
The gate to the bathing area

Notice the rustic structure surrounding the indoor bath, shown in the first photograph. Soaking in the wide tub, I saw swaying trees and flickering light dappling through the branches and windows of the wooden building. A greenish hue to the thermal mineral water matched the outdoor leaves. 

The immaculate outdoor bath exuded a feeling of being in nature because of the greenery, natural building materials, and fresh breezes blowing from the woods. In the background of this photograph, you can see two ribbons of water pouring into the bath. Bathers stand or sit under the falling mineral water to be massaged by the pressure and heat. Called utaseyu in Japanese, this is a positive addictive experience. Thermal water also enters the bath from a hole in a rock, seen in the foreground. I found the temperature to be at the border between pleasure and pain. A nearby wooden sauna room facilitates healthy sweating and bodily cleansing for those seeking dry heat.
Outdoor bath with utaseyu

The photographs above show the baths for men on the day of my visit. Many Japanese bathing facilities alternate public bathing areas so men and women can enjoy different baths without being exposed to members of the opposite sex. 

For those who wish to bathe with only family or friends, regardless of gender identity, Sansuien provides guests with a private bath called a kazokuburo, which translates as a family bath. 

Family bath for private bathing with intimate companions

Sansuien is located a short drive or bicycle ride (3 km or 1.86 mi) from a meandering path that follows the course of a river into which 48 gorgeous waterfalls pour. This magnificent canyon in Nabari City, Mie Prefecture, is known as the Akame 48 Waterfalls. The stunning views of waterfalls, woods, and sparkling water, paired with the sounds of splashing and streaming water, enthrall the spirit and calm the soul. 





Soothing hiking path

Nabari and other areas of Mie and East Nara are relatively unknown and barely visited, compared to Osaka, Kyoto, Nara, and Nagoya. By train, Nabari is less than two hours from the four cities above, so tour companies focusing on wellness and independent travelers can easily reach this region.


Being off the typical tourist map means this area retains its natural charm. Yoga, hiking, bathing, herbal tea and medicine workshops, ninja training workshops, and green tea preparation workshops are available to those who visit this wellness oasis. Lines, long waits, and crowds are rare. The astounding beauty of autumn leaves does draw people from afar. At that time, there may be traffic jams in the most popular areas. 

Sansuien's hot springs are open to overnighters and day visitors, too. Adults and children can enjoy the baths for 800 and 500 yen on weekdays from 10:00-21:00 and weekends/holidays from 10:00-15:00. 

My recommendation for day visitors is to combine a meal of regional cuisine and a bath. Spend 1,650 yen or more and receive a 300 yen discount on the baths. 

Sansuien has a wide variety of accommodations and meals. If you can read Japanese, visit the Sansuien website for details and prices. Otherwise, compare online hotel reservation sites.

The Hot Spring Addict was not paid by the Sansuien Hotel for this positive review. I was honestly impressed, which motivated me to write about it. The hotel did provide photographs of the baths. Tourism authorities in Nabari and East Nara covered accommodation, transportation, and meals while traveling for this trip. I was not required to provide such a glowing review of this onsen hotel. In fact, I visited two onsen facilities on this trip but decided to write about this one only. 

13 comments:

  1. Boy could I use a relaxing treat like this! Thanks for sharing -- good to know about!

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  2. This post warms my heart to see the beautiful environment photos with very meticulous description written by your good self. I truly miss my trips to Japan and the relaxing time in various onsen hotsprings which were heavenly nice. I need them right now but I am not sure if fate could allow me as I am still battling with my recovery. Next week with be my 3rd round of chemotherapy.

    Thank you for sharing.

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    Replies
    1. Dear Twilight Man, Thank you for writing to me. I hope that you got the message that I sent to you many months ago. I am also a cancer survivor. You might enjoy this article about how I coped with my cancer treatments. https://www.snowshoemag.com/snowshoeing-visualization-and-coping-with-cancer/

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  3. I have been to Nara's temples, and park named Nara Kouen. But I've never gone to Nara's hot springs. This post is useful for making a note that is a list of hot springs. I want to go green forest. Waterfall are very beautiful. I will go there.

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  4. A natural hot spring in Nabari area. Very appealing! Can't wait to check it out. It's about half way between Nagoya and Osaka on the Kintetsu line. I plan to stop there soon

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    1. You will need to change to a local train, but depending on the timing, it will not take long. Here is a link to one suggestion that Google offers for going there from Nagoya Station. https://goo.gl/maps/yb797JFWfpqTgjhG7

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  5. I was in the area, but didnt had the time to soak there since we were with public transport. Anyhow thanks for this article that brings back memories of my last Japan trip!

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    1. Which great onsens did you visit on your last trip to Japan? I always like to learn about the experiences of others.

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    2. Well, there were many good and nice ones, but as an onsen-otaku the one that was most generally most impressive was Kamiyu (https://goo.gl/maps/9GTY4JYgu5sazBCf8)
      It has become one of my most favourites over all Japan (and that after being in about more than 900 onsen)

      Beside that i really enjoyed digging my own onsen in Kawayu (https://goo.gl/maps/vHHT6EZMgGxok5xeA)

      Also great from point of views was the Rotenburo of Hotel 南紀白浜 浜千鳥の湯 海舟 in Shirahama (btw the sea-onsen there in this area is also wonderful)

      And really special thing were the cave onsens of Hotel Urashima (they even have a stamp collecting sheet just for the onsen within the hotel, haha).

      And finally, the best water during the trip (beside Kamiyu) was some day drip onsen in Wakayama. There were so many minerals, it is incredible (https://goo.gl/maps/6iks86dAE3RNxNPy6)

      I have put here some onsen-pictures from the trip if you would like to get some impressions:
      https://1drv.ms/f/s!Au6YB2V0L1DnjoYTEwWv7zudgsX6Ow?e=m3aIyR

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    3. Hello Andreas, Thank you for your excellent information, useful links, and fantastic photographs. You have inspired me to visit more hot springs. In fact, I am returning to Mie soon and plan to visit another one that is near Hotel Sansuien. My plan is to bathe under a waterfall in the Akame 48 and then bathe at Taisenkaku. I will let you know more later. However, to be honest, I have visited so many hot springs that I have not yet written about. I wish I had more time just for bathing and writing. Anyway, thank you again for your comments. I loved them.

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  6. You mean Taisenkaku in Shirahama? If so, dont miss Saki-no-Yu Onsen!

    Bathing in Akame 48 will for sure make you a Ninja - of coldness mastery. But enjoy!
    (Maybe if you are on the way down there and you pass Iga, i can recommend a somehow cool retro onsen: https://goo.gl/maps/sN6mn9pXZwrfoRon8)

    Also - beside onsen - check out Murou Art forest:
    https://goo.gl/maps/QCZtRwYujHRrJyGa8
    It is well off the radar of tourism.

    Generally i really liked Wakayama. Looking forward to read your reports (from whereever they will be)

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    1. Hello Andreas, I hope you are well. What are your recommendations for seaside onsens?

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  7. I visited the Murou Art Forest the same weekend I went to Sansuien, and I agree that it is beautiful, worth visiting, and off the radar of most foreigners coming to Japan. The hot spring I bathed in last weekend was a rotenburo (outdoor bath) at Taisenkaku Ryokan, which is about five minutes from the trail to the Akame 48. Unfortunately, due to ongoing renovations, I could not try out all of the baths. It was a lovely bath, but I prefer Sansuien. Right now, I do not have time to write in detail about it. Thanks for writing again.

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